Il essayait cette ligne du secteur Biographie en fil rouge chaque été depuis plusieurs années, Alex Megos a libéré son super-projet à Céüse hier avec la première ascension de “Bibliographie” ! Cette voie futuriste équipée par l’américain Ethan Pringle en 2009 propose 35 mètres d’escalade déversante, comme vous pouvez l’apprécier au début du film “Rotpunkt” où on voit Alex essayer cette voie. “Bibliographie” propose un pas de bloc marqué en son milieu, pour une cotation qui oscillerait entre le 9b+ et le 9c (edit: Alex annonce 9c ) ! L’ascension a été filmée donc une vidéo de cet exploit sera bientôt disponible !
Assurément la voie d’escalade sportive la plus dure de notre territoire, un cran au dessus de la “Rage d’Adam” à la Ramirole.
Plus d’infos à venir !
He was trying this line of Biographie sector every summer since years, Alex Megos just freed his super project in Céüse with the first ascent of “Bibliographie” ! This overhanging extreme route is 35 m long, bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. You can watch Alex trying it at the beginning of his movie “Rotpunkt”, with an hard section in the middle and a grade between 9b+ and 9c (edit: Alex suggests 9c ) ! The ascent has been filmed so may be soon a video will be available… For sure the hardest sportclimbing route in France, a step further than “La rage d’Adam” in La Ramirole, Verdon.
More to come!
Comments from Alex:
“Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn’t mean you don’t have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous “one last go”.
“I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn’t feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my ‘trouble move’ seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves. After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years “Bibliographie” has been by far my longest project to date.“
“I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that “Perfecto Mundo” (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, “Bibliographie” with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. Of course, as the first ascensionist you don’t have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people’s opinions.“
“Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you“