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Big Wall Océanie / Oceania

Nalle Hukkataival ouvre The great affair, une nouvelle grande-voie dure à Taipan wall – Nalle Hukkataival opens The great affair, a new hard MP in Taipan wall

A son dernier jour de trip en Australie, Nalle Hukkataival a réussi à enchaîner “The great affair” un projet de grande-voie à Taipan Wall dans les Grampians. La voie de 3 longueurs raye le milieu de l’amphithéâtre. D’abord équipée par Malcolm Matheson et Dave Jones et terminée par Nalle qui a équipé le bas ce séjour après avoir vu une ligne de faiblesse, la voie est marquée par la présence de gros jetés en guise de difficulté.  La première longueur, la plus dure de la grande-voie cote un 33 australien, soit 8c. C’est la première “première ascension” en grande-voie du grimpeur finlandais qui a déjà à son actif quelques faits d’armes dans ce style, avec notamment une répétition de “Silbergeier”.

At his last day of the trip in Australia, Nalle Hukkataival just succeed a multi-pitch project in Tapan wall, Grampians, with the first ascent of “The great affair” 8c, 3 pitches straight up in the middle of the amphitheater. His first MP first ascent for Nalle, who has ever crushed in this style with some classics like “Silbergier”. 

“Previously known as the dyno project, majority of the line was originally bolted by Malcolm Matheson in early 90’s with the final third pitch having been opened by Dave Jones. I bolted the lower section this trip after finding a way to climb it free by a wild dyno to connect the missing dots. Three pitches of glorious Taipan climbing – doesn’t get much better! The second pitch especially is pretty out of this world with it’s pristine sculpted Taipan rock. Taipan pioneer Malcolm really knew how to pick them! The first pitch stands as the hardest, I’d say, followed by the second pitch with it’s exposed all-points-off dyno. And the final pitch way at the top packs a punch too. Grade 33 or so for it’s demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. After days of mostly hanging alone up on the wall and dialing in the sequences it came down to the wire. In classic style I pulled it off on my last day, lowered to the ground and checked-in for my flight on my phone!”

Photo: Kamil Sustiak – Source : Instagram

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