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Falaise / Sportclimbing Performances Sud Est-Alpes / South East-Alps

Seb Bouin libère La Rage d’Adam 9b/b+ – Seb Bouin frees La Rage d’Adam 9b/b+

Seb Bouin vient de nouveau de frapper un grand coup avec la première ascension hier de “La Rage d’Adam” qu’il annonce 9b/b+ dans la baume de la Ramirole en rive Gauche du Verdon. Ce projet, équipé par Antonin Rhodes il y a 4 ans propose un 8c d’approche sur 6 dégaines avant un crux d’une dizaine de mouvements sur petites pinces et inversées estimé autour du 8A bloc. La partie sommitale est environ 8b. Adam Ondra qui a essayé la voie sous nos yeux à l’été 2015 n’a pas bougé dedans et confirme la haute difficulté de l’itinéraire. “La Rage d’Adam” devient la voie d’escalade sportive la plus dure sur le territoire français ! C’est la seconde voie de Seb dans ce niveau. En effet, le Varois avait déjà plié un de ses super-projets, “Move” à Flatanger (Norvège) en juin dernier.

Voici le commentaire de Seb ” Cette voie a été équipée il y a quelques années. C’était un gros objectif pour cette année. Cette voie est vraiment impressionnante par la pureté et la difficulté qu’elle propose. A propos de la cote je suis assez incertain. Cette voie n’est pas trop dans mon style, et je n’ai pas l’habitude de coter dans ce niveau. Cela pourrait être 9b dur ou 9b/+. En attendant confirmation ou ajustements.”

Plus d’infos à venir !

Source: Seb Bouin

Photo : Julia Cassou

Seb Bouin striked again this week with the first ascent of one of his projects in Ramirole cave, Verdon, “La Rage d’Adam” 9b/b+. This route bolted by Antonin Rhodes 4 years ago proposes an 8c approach then an 8A boulder crux on little pinches and underclings . The upper part is around 8b. Adam Ondra who tried the route in 2015 didn’t arrive to solve the crux and confirmed the high difficulty of “La Rage d’Adam”. This route is becoming the hardest sportclimbing route in France ! Its his second route in this level. Seb also climbed “Move” in Flatanger cave this Spring. More infos to come !

He is his comments “Wednesday was the day ! This route was bolted few years ago. I visited it for the first time 4 years ago. Since that, I was trying it a little bit each year, but not so seriously. This year, it was a big objective to me. This route is really impressive by the beauty and the purety of the moves. The difficulty is not so long : there is a first short 8c (5.14b) of 6 quickdraws to reach the boulder crux problem. This boulder is HARD. It’s around 10 amazing moves on little pinches and underclinds in a super overhang part. Then you have 25 meters of “easy” climbing (around 8b). I am quite uncertain about the grade, this route is not so much my style, and I have not so much experience in this grade. It could be hard 9b or 9b/+. I will propose 9b/+, waiting repetitions to confirm or adjust. “

“Adam Onda tried this route few years ago. Here few words about his feelings: “It was a summer day of 2015, conditions felt quite good though and Seb showed me this project, that he had briefly tried before. He mentioned hard boulder problem and when arrived there, even after 20 minutes I did not really imagine any possible sequence that could make it more climbable. After even minutes hanging in the bolts, I came up with some crazy gaston beta, but I could not do the moves either and dismissed the route as too hard to be climbable in the near future… Well, Seb did not give up, came back, got some better beta, got super strong and finally sent it this year. My guess is that it could be more of 9b/b+, if not even harder, based on my one and only experience of the route – which felt HARD!” “


More infos to come !

Source: Seb Bouin

Photo : Julia Cassou

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