Découvrez la vidéo de Seb Bouin aux prises avec le plafond d’Akira. Un quart de siècle après la première ascension par Fred Rouhling, Seb dépoussière cette voie mythique en compagnie de Lucien Martinez et ils empochent cet automne les seconde et 3ème ascensions de cette voie mythique des Charentes. Avant que Seb nous gratifie de la vidéo de l’enchainement non-coupée de la voie dans les jours à venir, voici un aperçu des mouvements et de l’effort dans ce gigantesque plafond de 3 mètres de haut. Physique !
Here is Black Diamond’s description (taken from the Youtube video):
For 25 years, Fred Rouhling’s masterpiece sat nearly untouched. Dust and cobwebs covered the holds. The chalk, once a beacon of light in a dark cave, both figuratively and literally, was fading. But in 1995, while Rouhling cared for his wife Celine who was recovering from a serious spinal cord injury, this cave was a refuge for a worried man. Located just 200 meters from his parent’s home, this limestone cave gave Rouhling a few hours of escape every day during his wife’s recovery. A place where he could relax his mind and let his body flow through 65 feet of overhanging crimps and pockets. When he completed the route, he called it Akira and proposed the unprecedented grade of 5.15b. Considering that was two letter grades harder than anything in the world at the time, many considered Rouhling an eccentric who was out of touch. But after all these years, this route, which was once a mental sanctuary for a distraught husband, was left waiting for someone who could also find meaning in the movement. Fortunately, Seb Bouin was intrigued and journeyed to the village of Vilhonneur to uncover the mythical “Akira”.
Photo – Video : Julien Nadiras